Description
Climbing Mont Blanc requires a certain amount of stamina and the willingness to get up a little earlier.
Program: Duration 4-5 days
Day 1. We meet for the preparatory tour either in Staffal or in Valnontey. Castor 4266m or, of course, Gran Paradiso 4061m are suitable for the preparatory tour. But we make the decision individually.
To get to the Sella Hut at 3585m from Staffal we first take the train or taxi and then walk for about 3 hours along a very good path (somewhat exposed in places) to the hut. The hut offers a lot of comfort and nothing stands in the way of the first night of acclimatization.
Day 2. The next morning we set off early, directly from the hut with the rope towards Castor. We reach the summit ridge over a few glacier floors. The exposed snow ridge offers a great panoramic view of the Monte Rosa massif and also towards Mont Blanc. We return to the hut on the same route, have a short rest and then head towards the car park in Staffal.
There are a few meters of elevation to climb to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele and the approach to the hut offers everything a mountaineer's heart could wish for. We finally reach the hut through forest and rugged terrain.
Day 2. Strengthened, we set off early the next morning towards the summit because we have to descend the 2,100 metres from the summit. Finally, an easy boulder climb and we reach the Madonna statue and then the summit of the Gran Paradiso at 4,061m. A short loop and then back on the same path to the hut and the car park.
On the second day we drive to the hotel in Chamonix to spend another night in the valley.
Day 3. In the morning we take the Aguille du Midi cable car to 3842m and enter the Mont Blanc massif. A different world opens up when you exit the tunnel and climb down the exposed snow ridge to the glacier plateau. From there we have a few options. Either take the Cosmique ridge from our starting point tomorrow at the Cosmique hut back up to the cable car. Or take the Midi Plan ridge to the Aguilles du Plan or go back to the other side of the plateau via the southeast ridge to the hut. Depending on what the best conditions are at the time.
Day 4. The decision day... today we have to get up extremely early to reach our long-awaited goal of Mont Blanc via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. First we go over the steep flank in the direction of Tacul in the light of our headlamps. Over the glacier with its huge crevasses onto the plateau in a southeasterly direction towards the sunrise. The next crux then follows at Maudit. Again past crevasses and then over the steep ice flank to the right of the summit. The next plateau is already waiting for us. After that it is relatively easy, but of course already a little worn out by the tour to the final spurt on Mont Blanc. There the air is already a little thinner and the pace slows down. Now it's time to grit our teeth... The summit and the view will reward the exertions. After the summit break and a photo or two, we start on the "normal ascent" towards Vallon Bivouac and over the Dome de Gouter to the Gouter Hut. We have to go past the new and old huts, down the ridge to the left of the Grand Couloir and across the short traverse - as quickly as possible - to the Tete Rousse. We have completed the hardest and most demanding part, but now we have to get down to the train so that we don't have to do this route on foot as well.
The goal has been reached and the end is well deserved! Back at the hotel in Chamonix, you obviously have to celebrate the tour properly... but that is no longer planned! ;-)
PRICE: from 1,999,-- (depending on days and tours) plus expenses
Difficulty: hard
Services included:
- 4-5 days guided by state-certified mountain and ski guides
- Rental equipment
Picture 1: Mont Blanc
Picture 2: Castor ascent
Picture 3: Gran Paradiso
Picture 4: Ridge to the Cosmique Hut
Picture 5: Ascent to Sella Hut
Picture 6: Ascent of Tacul
Image 7: Pure relaxation
Picture 8: Maudit
Picture 9: last rise of Mont Blanc
Picture 10: Summit victory
The tauern sports ALPINSCHULE team
Our guides are all state-certified mountain and ski guides and are at home in the Hohe Tauern. If you book a course or a tour with us, you are sure to have booked a professional on the mountain.
To the team
